Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Wallse

There are nights that call for a slightly upscale dining experience, but you've had your fill lately of French cuisine, Italian indulgences, and all shades of Asian infusions. You're thinking European elegance is the right move, but how many times can you go for a bistro, a tapas restaurant, a cafe? Well kids, this is the night you opt for Austrian fare and make a reservation at Wallse. Tell you more? Why, I'd be delighted.

Wallse is one of three restaurants from Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner - Cafe Sabarsky on the Upper East Side and Blaue Gans in Tribeca are the other two. (Sidenote: his wine bar, The Upholstery Store, is two doors down from Wallse, and Cafe Kristall should be coming to SoHo this winter). After having worked in Austria, Switzerland, Germany, and New York (with David Bouley and then as executive chef at Monkey Bar), Chef Gutenbrunner opened Wallse as his first New York restaurant. This venture earned him two stars from the New York Times in 2004 and one star from Michelin each year since New York restaurants have been eligible for such an honor. Located on a quiet West Village corner near neighborhood hot spots like The Spotted Pig, Perry St, Barbuto, and myriad wine bars, Wallse both fits in (regarding ambiance and quality) and stands out (thanks to its unique cuisine).

The restaurant is comprised of two rooms, the first of which is equipped with a bar. The floors and seats are black, the walls and tablecloths are white, fresh flowers and plants fill the large windows, and the standout design element is the collection of paintings adorning the walls. Over-sized canvases loom over diners, demonstrating Gutenbrunner's desire to marry art and food; an integration which was the impetus to situate his Cafe Sabarsky in the Neue Galerie along Museum Mile.

So how's the food? Not too shabby. You'll find words like spatzle, goulash, wiener schnitzel, and kavalierspitz on the menu. You'll find ingredients like sour cream, cucumbers, lingonberries, and celery root throughout the dishes. Most importantly, you'll find balanced, tasty options like an appetizer of marinated pork loin with smoked eel and prunes, an entree of olive oil poached wild striped bass with sweet pepper marinade, or a roasted veal chop with spinach and chanterelles. Vegetarians won't go hungry either thanks to selections like potato ravioli with chanterelles and potato-chive broth, artichokes and spring root vegetables in a light basil sauce, and side dishes of creamed spinach and potato-cucumber salad.

Of course, to partake in this distinctive experience, it's going to cost a bit more than your average potato salad and apple strudel. At last check, appetizers ranged from $12-$19, entrees were $22-$42, and desserts were $9-$12. Side dishes were available for $9, and Austrian and German cheeses ran about the same. You may also opt to create your own tasting menu by selecting four courses for $75 or six courses for $98, as long as the whole table is on board.

So make a reservation when you're itching for something new, you finally got that promotion at work, and your handsome Viennese boyfriend is longing for a taste of home...assuming anyone at home went to culinary school at the age of 15 like Chef Gutenbrunner and can make a meal just as delicious.

Wallse - 344 West 11th Street, at the corner of Washington Street

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