Lupa

Lupa is a Mario Batali restaurant. You know Mario from his television appearances, his cookbooks, his kitchen products, and maybe even from a mention on your favorite blog (ahem). You may have been to his wine store, you may have seen him and his ever-present orange footwear at Chelsea Market, you may have even been to one (or six) of his restaurants. You might therefore also know that Mr. Batali often partners in his endeavors with Joseph Bastianich, and there is no exception in the case of Lupa. Mr. Bastianich has had a hand in Batali's seafood restaurant, Esca, in his 3-star triumph, Babbo, and in several other projects throughout New York, Las Vegas, and California. Also partnering at Lupa are Jason Denton (of 'ino, 'inoteca, and Batali/Bastianich's Otto) and Chef Mark Ladner (sous-chef at Babbo's opening and yet another Otto contributor). All of which is to say, Lupa's owners know a thing or two about Italian restaurants, and thankfully, at Lupa, it shows.

For starters, the food is prepared well. Sadly, the same can not be said for every Italian restaurant throughout Manhattan. Basics like pasta are often overcooked, drenched in sauce, or they arrive cold at the table. Mercifully, Lupa's pasta dishes are al dente, flavorful without being overworked, and hot. The style of the food is Roman, as the restaurant's full name is Lupa Osteria Romana. According to the restaurant's website (and Italian speakers the world over), "Osteria Romana" means "Roman Tavern," and "Lupa" means "She-Wolf." Parenthetically, you have no idea how badly I want to crack a Shakira joke.

The menu is divided into categories: verdura, carne, insalata, pesce, primi, secondi, and piatto del giorno (aka, vegetables, meat, salad, fish, first courses, entrees, and daily specials). A good portion of the menu is written in Italian, but a glossary on the back will help in the deciphering process as will the waitstaff, who are typically friendly and engaging. The food may be shared family style, or you may opt to hoard a selection from one of the above mentioned categories for yourself - hey, if you can annihilate an order of house made coppa cotta by your lonesome, who am I to say otherwise?

The restaurant is divided into two rooms, both of which are casual yet polished. The front room is packed with wood chairs at dark wood tables, approximately 9 stools at the bar to the left, and a large wine hutch anchoring the right wall at the rear of the space. The floors are ceramic, the walls are a rusty orange color, and the noise level is lively. Pretty much exactly what one might expect of an Italian trattoria. Arched doorways lead to the smaller back room in which the tables have cloths, cushioned banquettes line the wall, and a chandelier coupled with wall sconces provide the light. This back room may seem more serene than the front at first glance, but the noise level and energy in the space depends largely on the patrons at any given time.

So let's talk particulars. Reservations are highly recommended for dinner, though you may have some luck strolling in without one for lunch. The food is moderately priced considering the quality, but there are ways to pay less than what you might otherwise expect. Lupa offers "Roma Mezzanotte," which is a late night price-fixed menu for $26* per person. It is available Sunday through Thursday from 10:00pm until midnight, and it includes three courses (antipasta, pasta, and dessert) plus a glass of wine. The regular menu is also available during this time.

Lupa also hosts events from time to time which showcase a particular seasonal ingredient, method of cooking, holiday tradition, or region of wine (Bastianich is an owner of several wineries; one of which includes Batali as a partner. Not surprisingly, Lupa's wine list is extensive.) A good way to learn about upcoming events is to visit the restaurant's website and/or join their mailing list. Additionally, you may host your own private event, as Lupa is equipped to accommodate up to 80 guests (up to 30 guests at dinner or the entire restaurant at lunch). It should be noted that any party larger than 6 at lunch or dinner is required to partake in a price-fixed menu option rather than dining a la carte.

So next time you are hungry like the wolf, grab your favorite she-wolf and head over to Lupa for an evening in Roma without ever leaving New York, New York. (I couldn't resist.)

Lupa - 170 Thompson Street, between between Bleecker & Houston Streets

UPDATE - The price has increased. I repeat. The price has increased. Lupa's Roma Mezzanotte will set you back a cool $3 more than before at $29 per person. We can storm the streets in protest, OR...pay it. Yeah, just pay it. Occupy Lupa sounds like too much of a headache to organize.

Lamazou

This was initially intended to be a post about several more-special-than-your-average-deli delis, but I realized I had more-rambling-than-your-average-blurb to say about each. Without further delay, it is time to discuss the first of the few: Lamazou and all its amazingness.

Lamazou used to present itself as a cheese shop - and it is. With a rumored cheese cave in the basement and a display case full of camembert, epoisse, comte, robiola, cheddar, reblochon, brie, smoked gouda, manchego, herbed goat, gorgonzola dolce, vacherain, stilton, havarti, and so much more, it certainly covers the cheese spectrum. However, as indicated by Lamazou's relatively new sign out front, there is more to this gem than a lactose intolerant's nightmare. It now additionally and appropriately advertises itself with words like "sandwiches," "catering," and "gift basket."

For starters, there's the meat. A refrigerated case behind the cheese display houses a large enough assortment to slake your thirst for various cured proteins for years to come. From spicy sopressata to garlic sausage, serrano ham to proscuitto di parma, mortadella to genoa salami, roast beef to bresaola, french ham to chorizo, there's something for every taste. More of a poultry fan? They offer honey turkey, roast turkey, smoked turkey, grilled chicken, and buffalo chicken.

"Yeah, but I can get a turkey sandwich anywhere," you say.
"True, but how about smoked duck breast? Venison pate? Truffle liver mousse?" I retort.
"Ew," you say.
"I just meant they have more than your typical corner bodega. Feel free to order whatever makes you happy," I explain.
"I see. Let's never fight again," you say. And we lived happily ever after.

Beyond the cheese and meat, Lamazou also offers salads, Mediterranean selections (such as tabbouli, humus, babaghannouj, and stuffed grape leaves), grilled vegetables, marinated vegetables, cole slaw, tuna fish, smoked salmon, and egg salad laced with strong roquefort (Something that is better to know beforehand than to be surprised by after the first bite. I promise).

All of the above options may be combined in whatever manner you see fit to make hearty sandwiches on a variety of freshly baked breads (including baguettes, ciabatta, pumpernickel rolls, multi-grain rolls, sliced rye, and semolina) with or without dressings, garnish, or condiments (such as horseradish, cornichons, pesto, or simply lettuce and tomato). Suggestions of well-crafted Lamazou sandwiches may be found on Lamazou's website, and they (as well as any other sandwich you create) may be ordered as a half ($4.90-$5.95) or whole ($7.75-$9.99) portion. Lunch specials are offered from 11:00am to 3:00pm, which include soup (selection changes daily) and a sandwich. Grab a Pellegrino from the refrigerator, a box of dried apricots near the register, and don't be surprised when your coworkers ask, "Wheredja get that?" (I don't know why they're asking so inarticulately either).

Maybe you are not interested in a vast cheese selection, meats from around the world, or enough vegetarian side dishes to keep your crunchy visitor from San Francisco sated. Maybe you would like some imported goodies to remind you of your trip to London (Hob Nobs, Ribena, and Heinz Salad Cream, perhaps), to recreate your favorite Parisian crepe at home (a jar of Nutella, bien sur), or to finish off that antipasti plate you are planning for dinner (tuna stuffed olives should do the trick). Lamazou offers shelves upon shelves of gourmet delights from tea to caviar to jam to truffle oil to biscuits.

So stop by this sliver of a storefront when you are hungry for a meal on the go (as there is no seating at Lamazou). Send a thank you to your in-laws after a weekend at their country home (from the gift basket menu or by filling a hand-picked decorative basket hanging over Lamazou's counter with whatever you think they would like best). Drop hints at your next office meeting the boss would prefer a catered Lamazou lunch for her birthday over whatever the jerk from three cubicles over was just suggesting (you know she thinks he's an idiot anyway).

Lamazou - 370 3rd Avenue, between East 26th & East 27th Streets

Mizu

So he says to me, he says, "Hey! Fresh Pepper!" Though you know it sounded like "Peppah."
And I'm like, "Word?"
He goes, "I'm ten blocks south of Mishima, and I ain't tryin' to walk for no sushi."
So I'm like, "Oh yeah?"
And he's all, "Yeah! What you got?" But it comes out like, "Challenge!"
With my brightest Colgate smile, I go, "Mizu, homes!"

I hope you enjoyed my entirely fictional and unnecessarily affected dramatic sketch. The moral of the story is: there is a Japanese restaurant in Gramercy called Mizu, which is worth checking out if you are in the neighborhood. The food is fresh, the service is prompt, and the atmosphere is a touch trendier than the previously discussed Tomoe and Mishima.

Whereas the other two restaurants are sparse in their decor, Mizu's design elements include exposed brick (along one wall), slate tiles (along another wall), and illuminated rice paper (throughout the room and most noticeably in a palm frond formation on the ceiling). Even the wood-framed glass door and floor-to-ceiling front windows are ornate in that each panel is comprised of multiple glass panes in varying geometric shapes. However, plastic tabletops, plastic-cushioned metal chairs, and exposed air conditioning units render the overall feel of Mizu casual. The loud crowds and music are contributing factors as well.

So how does Mizu measure up against my sushi restaurant test? The california roll was $6.50 at last check, which indicates prices are not particularly low. Regular rolls range from $4.00 (cucumber roll) to $8.00 (tuna/avacado/caviar roll) with an average of $6.00. Special rolls range from $6.50 to $15.00 with an average of $11.00. This is by no means outrageous, but it is not a bargain either. As for my spicy scallop roll, they have one, it is tasty, and it costs $9.00.

I recommend Mizu for one of those fun Thursday nights that feels like a Saturday after several after-work flutes of champagne at the aptly-named Flute across the street, for a double date with that couple who both wear fedoras on a regular basis, or for lunch with your nephew - he's already in the neighborhood and unwilling to walk the ten blocks to Mishima anyway.

Mizu - 29 East 20th Street, between Broadway & Park Avenue South

Perry St

First things first - Perry St is indeed located on Perry Street, but its entrance is around the corner on West Street. This information should save you the inconvenience of walking into the lobby of the building's residential section, and it should save the doorman of said section from redirecting yet another disoriented diner. You're welcome.

So yes, the restaurant is located on the ground floor of a Richard Meier building - a building comprised of swanky multi-million dollar condominiums, one of which is home to Perry St chef/owner, Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Needless to say, the restaurant is not too shabby a space. From the outdoor slate tiles by the mini infinity pool-esque water feature, one enters through the glass vestibule into a sleek space of muted tones and minimalist decor with industrial touches. The host/hostess stand is in front of you, the lounge is to the left (beyond which is the coat check), the bar is to the rear, and the L-shaped dining room is to the right.

The lounge area is outfitted with barely-plush couches, leather benches, and knee-high tables under dangling filament bulbs. In the main area, diners sit on white leather banquettes and armchairs at rectangular tables or around high-backed rounded banquettes at round tables. Light in the main room is provided by shaded floor lamps arching over tables and by the sunlight pouring through the floor-to-ceiling windows through which one spies the Hudson River beyond the West Side Highway. Glare is tempered by lightly colored sheer shades, which complement the dark chocolate carpet, light gray cement pillars, and varying hues of wood throughout the room.

Like at other Vongerichten restaurants throughout and beyond Manhattan, you can ultimately count on a great meal with attentive service. Dinner at Perry St will be a smidge more casual than his namesake at the Trump International Hotel & Tower at Central Park West. That's ok, because the prices are a smidge lower accordingly. The atmosphere at Perry St will be less ornate than his Spice Market in the Meatpacking District - less boisterous than the ambiance at Mercer Kitchen in Soho - less stodgy than the nuances at JoJo on the Upper East Side - more refined than the cafe-like touches at Nougatine back at Central Park. That's ok too, because it seems the point of Perry St is a return to basics, in which attention is predominantly focused on the food.

The food at Perry St is American at its core with French and Asian influences. The meal starts with an amuse bouche from the chef, usually a soup, which varies with the season. From there, you may order a la carte or from the price-fixed menu. The restaurant offers a $26 lunch and a $38 dinner, both of which are three courses (two plates and a dessert; additional plates are $13 each). The dinner promotion is offered between 5:30pm and 6:00pm as well as after 9:30pm everyday except Saturday.

Appetizers at Perry St include the likes of a beet salad with goat cheese and champagne mango vinaigrette, crispy poached eggs with caviar and vodka cream, and sweet chili crab dumplings with cilantro and sugar snap peas. Entrees include slowly baked arctic char with white asparagus and basil vinaigrette, fried chicken with a spicy pea puree and pickled onions, and braised rabbit with lemongrass and ginger sweet corn. The desserts are artfully composed as well. At one point, there was a chocolate mousse with crystallized violets on the menu; at another time, white chocolate and meringue with yuzu sorbet.

So make a reservation at Perry St for your favorite forty year old who would prefer a quiet birthday celebration if you must celebrate this new decade at all, for your date with the woman you are finally ready to introduce to your friends (maybe meet them afterward for cocktails at the Jane Hotel five blocks north), for lunch with Calvin Klein and Nicole Kidman who were rumored to live upstairs (in separate apartments, of course) at one point or another. That is, if you actually know them.

Perry St - 176 Perry Street, at the corner of West Street

Table d'Hote

So you know how Le Grainne Cafe was this casual French bistro? Well Table d'Hote...isn't. Yes, it is French, and no, they will not turn you away in jeans and sneakers, but it is less "Let's grab a crepe," and more, "I'll have the seared salmon with accompanying roasted shallot risotto and greens."

Thankfully, the ambiance is not pretentious. On account of the small size of the room, the hutches that serve double duty as decoration and wine storage, the framed drawings of fruit and women lining the walls, the wood chairs with straw seats, the half curtains covering the bottoms of the windows, and the restaurant's location on a quiet side street on the Upper East Side, Table d'Hote is neither bustling like Paris nor decadent like the Riviera. Instead, it feels more like the countryside - cozy, inviting, and informally elegant.

The menu is divided into firsts and mains, but the mains are further categorized into tasting and entree portions. Although smaller than the entree sizes, the tasting portions are not exactly small. On a recent visit, I ordered a bowl of cauliflower and blue cheese soup (a special appetizer that day) and the tasting size of the quail. The plate was loaded with rosemary and ginger stuffing, swiss chard, and a well seasoned bird. The waiter explained the entree size would have come with the same amount of stuffing and greens but with two birds instead of the one. My order was the appropriate size for my appetite, but perhaps it would not have been sufficient for someone who had skipped the appetizer - for someone who had sadly worked through lunch that afternoon - for someone who had not just consumed the beer I had just consumed at the Central Park Boathouse.

As is fitting of a delightful restaurant on the Upper East Side with quality food, a suitable wine selection, and attentive service, the prices are moderately expensive. However, price-fixed menus are available at brunch, lunch, and dinner, so it is certainly possible to enjoy a reasonably priced meal - rendered all the more enjoyable and somehow more scrumptious by the reasonable price.

So head over with that out-of-towner who asked to visit the Guggenheim, that couple you and your wife met while wine tasting in the Hamptons, or your partner of 35 years. If you are gamblers by nature, you can go to the fewer-than-30-seats restaurant without a reservation. Though a craps shooter in casinos, I am less of a risk taker when it comes to dinnertime and suggest calling ahead.

Table d'Hote - 44 East 92nd Street, between Madison & Park Avenues

Bubby's (aka Bubby's Pie Co.)

A few years ago, I had jury duty in the triangle below Canal - more or less cryptically known as Tribeca. When we broke for lunch on the first day, I hoped to find a spot more casual and less expensive than those in the area with which I was already familiar (such as Thalassa, Nobu, and the now closed Chanterelle). I found Bubby's.

As the name implies, Bubby's serves the kind of food grandmothers across the nation may be proud to claim as their own. The website labels the cuisine "American cookery," so a breakfast dish like Gina's Huevos Rancheros may resemble your abuela's in San Diego, the matzo ball soup at lunch may remind you of your nana's in Brooklyn, and the authentic pit barbecue at dinner might compare to your grandmama's in Austin. The menu also includes salads, sandwiches, burgers, pancakes, mac & cheese, and side dishes like hush puppies, collared greens, onion straws, baked beans, and mashed potatoes with chicken gravy.

Bubby's is located on the southeast corner of Hudson and N. Moore Streets. Its floor to ceiling windows allow for a sun-filled room during the day and prime pedestrian watching during the night, as Bubby's is open 24 hours, 6 days a week, and until midnight on Mondays. The main room is spacious with caddies of condiments on wood tables by wood chairs and banquettes across the wood floor. This room is adjacent to Bubby's bakery where all of the restaurant's desserts are homemade and have been since its opening in 1990, when a pizza oven was used to bake pies (noooooow "Bubby's Pie Co." is starting to make sense, huh?).

Lines may be long at weekend brunch, and dishes may cost more than expected overall. Some will declare it is worth it - some will kvetch it is not. Wherever you fall on the spectrum, you have the option of loving/hating/remaining indifferent at the Tribeca location or at the one down under the Manhattan Bridge overpass - more or less cryptically known as DUMBO.

So treat that director whose work wasn't particularly well received at the latest Tribeca Film Festival, that cute potential juror who spent the past two days dreading being called into that side room, or your kids who hate grandma's meatloaf but are willing to eat Bubby's bacon-wrapped variety.

Bubby's - 120 Hudson Street, at the corner of N. Moore Street

Mishima

I have three basic tests for sushi restaurants:

1. Is the california roll more than $5.00?
2. Is raw scallop on the menu?
3. Would I eat said scallop here?

Here is the reasoning:

1. Although I do not often order california rolls, they are a solid standard by which to measure overall price reasonableness of a restaurant. If a fluff item of vegetables and imitation crab costs more than $5.00, the legitimate fish will probably hit the wallet harder than necessary.
2. Scallops are not offered everywhere, and they do not need to be. However, when I am looking for something more than a spicy tuna roll, it is lovely to know the establishment provides interesting options. "Interesting" is subjective, and I would agree there are more off-the-beaten-path choices than this particular one; however, this is a basic test, and something as extreme as poisonous blowfish is not required to pique my interest. Also, I think scallops are tasty, so lay off me, bub.
   
3. The availability of raw shellfish does not automatically mean I will eat it. The combination of the restaurant's cleanliness and reputation for quality goes quite far in this regard.

How Mishima measures up:

1. The california roll was $5.00 at last check. I would forgive an increase to $5.50 considering how well the staff has treated me in years past (a free dish of edamame here, rushed delivery there), but I am not trying to give the management any silly ideas.
   
2. Scallops? Got 'em! Other menu items include both lobster miso soup and clam miso soup in addition to the standard tofu miso soup. Appetizers cover basics like shumai, gyoza, and negimaki while also including nasu-shigiyaki (eggplant with miso paste and ground chicken) and goma ae (spinach with sesame sauce). As for entrees, yes, there's sushi and udon noodles, teriyaki and tempura, but there's also una don (boiled eel on rice) and, at times, hamachi kama (which is Japanese for "yellowtail collar" and probably also for "crazy delicious").
3. Not only do I feel comfortable eating the scallops here, I am compelled to order at least one spicy scallop roll upon every visit. This may have something to do with the spicy mayo sauce, which is preferable in my opinion to the chili flakes/paste/oil used elsewhere, and which is all shades of yum. Now, I am not going to say Mishima is the absolute best Japanese restaurant in Murray Hill, but I am going to note several others have come and gone from this neighborhood over the years while Mishima has remained a constant. Take from that information what you will.

Mishima is noticeable on Lexington Avenue thanks to its three black awnings with simple white lettering. One spans the ground floor picture window and door, while the other two are anchored above the restaurant's second story windows. After stepping down from the sidewalk to the entrance, you have the option of sitting in the narrow downstairs area at one of the tables along the mirrored wall or at the sushi bar. Otherwise, you may choose to sit at the second sushi bar upstairs or at one of the tables in this brighter, larger space. The food and sake taste the same in either location, so don't agonize over the decision. Chances are you will be seated wherever there is room, as the restaurant is typically busy during peak lunch and dinner hours.

So go with that Long Islander who drove in via the Midtown Tunnel and doesn't want to sit in any more traffic, that coworker who spills the best gossip about your other coworkers, or that recent graduate who is living out College 2.0 in one of those Murray Hill "dorms." Run it by your own checklist, and let me know what you think.

Mishima - 164 Lexington Avenue, between East 30th & East 31st Streets